Cookthink

Goat Cheese Ravioli With Broccoli and Parmesan

Thu, 01 Dec 2011 07:26:47 -0500

With broccoli starting to come up in my raised winter vegetable bed, I've been cooking a lot with it lately. One of my favorite ways to cook it is with pasta. Here's a simple one that's easy to make with store-bought, good quality ravioli. Add a drizzle of olive oil at the end to enrich the sauce if you like.

Ingredients

3/4 pound broccoli, cut into florets
1 pound goat cheese ravioli (homemade, fresh or frozen)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan

Instructions

1. Bring a large pot of water and 2 teaspoons salt to a boil. Add the ravioli and stir. Simmer them gently, stirring occasionally so they don't stick to the bottom of the pot, until they're tender (or according to the package directions). Don't let the water get to a rolling boil, or the ravioli may break apart.

2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add the broccoli and season with a light sprinkling of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the broccoli is bright green and tender but not soft, 5-8 minutes.

3. Add a splash of the pasta water to the broccoli to form a sauce. (There should be just enough liquid in the pan to cling to the ravioli.)

4. When the ravioli are done, add them to the pan with a slotted spoon. Gently toss them with the broccoli. Sprinkle over the red pepper flakes, parmesan and more freshly ground black pepper.

November Produce

Sun, 13 Nov 2011 11:33:00 -0500

The Charleston Farmers Market sets up every Saturday downtown in Marion Square until December 19, just two days before the first day of winter. That's about a month away, and the harvest from the surrounding sea islands -- Johns, Wadmalaw, James, Edisto -- goes on. It may even be fair to say (especially if you like greens) that the variety is as good or better now than it's been all year. The extent of the local farm bounty was one of the most fun discoveries I had after moving to Charleston a couple of years ago.

Even though I've been cooking with greens from my raised beds out here on Sullivan's for weeks now, I'll stil be able to get fresh local produce for a while, if not all year round. By this time last year in the lowcountry we had dipped into the low 40's just a few nights despite near freezing temperatures upstate, and even then summer crops like tomatoes, melons, okra, peas and peanuts still look great. Most farms are surrounded by water that's about 65 degrees this time of year, which helps a lot. But this year has been really mild by contrast, which I'm not complaining about at all.

This time last year I was talking regularly with Jay Maynard at the Thackeray booth for a while, who had a lot of great information about what they're growing, which I was beginning to gather together for an article in the Charleston City Paper's Dish Dining Guide. I'm going to try to head out to the farm next week to check out some of the heirloom varieties they're growing, and compare that to last year. Last year I asked Jay if the okra below was the red variety (which you never see around here). He said that no, it's just green okra that's wintering off -- or naturally producing red tannins in anticipation of frost. He said Sean Brock (it always goes back to Brock) is cooking with an heirloom variety of okra called Copahee (which must be from around here), which is truly red in color.

Heartier cool-weather greens and roots like sweet potatoes, radishes, carrots and onions are not only abundant now, but are doing their best, and should be around until January or so. Some say collards and other greens taste best after a frost.

At home out on Sullivan's Island I've had collards, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red and green kale and cauliflower planted for about a month. Just about everything looked wilted when we were in the upper 70's, but it's all happier and happier the cooler it gets. I'm looking forward to seeing how long the cool-weather vegetables last -- and may even try to squeeze in an early spring crop after letting the bed lie fallow for a month or so, depending on the weather.

Fall Breakfast Fusion

Tue, 11 Oct 2011 08:31:58 -0400

It's not exactly chilly in the lowcountry right now, but this rainy coastal system moving up from Florida made yesterday a pretty dreary Monday. It was actually nice for a change.

Now that fall's here, there's a shift in ways to explore the relationship between Southern and Southeast Asian (among other cuisines) food and cooking. I love working tropical ingredients into comforting favorites, and am always surprised at how much better they make even a simple dish like oatmeal.

With that in mind, I started the rainy workweek off yesterday with an easy breakfast combining steel cut oats with coconut milk, bananas and cashews.

I tossed a handful of steel cut oats into a glass bowl, added in twice as much water, and a pinch of salt, then covered the bowl in plastic wrap and cooked the oats at 80% power for six minutes. Then I moved the partially-cooked oats to a saucepan, barely covered them with coconut milk, and stirred in a tablespoon each of butter and brown sugar.

I simmered the oats until they were soft -- another five minutes. Then I topped them with a sliced banana, a handful of cashews I had crushed in a mortar and pestle, and a drizzle of honey.

The coconut milk, bananas and cashews were a great match, anchored by the underlying nuttiness of the oats. Not bad for a warming, throw-together breakfast.

Now it's back to the dry, sunny upper 70's.

Sweet Potato Gnocchi With Gorgonzola

Wed, 14 Sep 2011 12:00:19 -0400

After trying many versions over the years, I've come to the conclusion that it's impossible to write (or follow) a foolproof recipe for fresh gnocchi.

The right ration of flour to liquid depends on subtleties like humidity, the size of the eggs (if you're using them), and the size of and amount of moisture in the potatoes (or sweet potatoes, in this case). I've followed recipes too closely in the past and have had the gnocchi disintegrate in the pot. A recipe can get you close, but you have to rely on feel too.

Last night I had some sweet potatoes from Joseph Fields Farm and some good gorgonzola from Goat Sheep Cow on hand. I decided I'd make gnocchi, but instead of relying on a recipe, I just decided to go with my gut.

First, I peeled the sweet potatoes, cut them into cubes to make them cook faster, and put them on a steaming rack in a large pot.

When I could easily pierce the chunks of sweet potato with a knife, I took them off the heat. I fed the pieces into a potato ricer.

I fitted my mixer with the flat beater at first, just to combine the ingredients. I added the flour (less than I thought I needed), an egg, a sprinkling of salt and pepper and a healthy pinch of freshly grated nutmeg.

Once the ingredients were combined, I switched the flat beater out for the dough hook. I added more flour as I mixed, stopping occasionally to stir the mixture with a spatula to keep it off the bottom of the bowl.

I kept adding flour until the dough pulled away from the sides of the bowl and turned into a ball. Then I revved up the mixer and let the hook knock the dough around for about 20 seconds to develop the gluten in the sweet potatoes, which helps the gnocchi hold together.

I tossed some flour onto the cutting board, then rolled the kneaded dough out onto the board.

I sprinkled it with more bench flour, then cut the dough into thirds.

I rolled and pulled one of the thirds into a long dowel.

I used a pastry cutter to cut the dowel into pieces.

I sprinkled the forming gnocchi generously with more flour to keep them from sticking together, and tossed them around in the flour for insurance.

Then, using my thumb and forefinger, I rolled the gnocchi along the back of a fork. The ridges give them texture and help them hold the sauce.

I put together a quick, simple sauce. I added a splash of whole milk to a small nonstick skillet and warmed it over medium heat. I crumbled in a chunk of gorgonzola, and swirled the pan around to help it melt. Then I just simmered the sauce until it was thick and looked like it would coat the gnocchi.

I simmered the gnocchi gently in boiling salted water until they expanded, floated and were hot in the center, about 5 minutes. I lifted them out of the water with a slotted spoon and added them straight into the sauce. I added lots of fresh ground black pepper and simmered them until they were coated.

Making fresh pasta always seems a like a big commitment, but it usually ends up being easier -- and tastier -- than I expect.

Broiled Eggplant With Soy, Lime, Chile And Garlic

Tue, 13 Sep 2011 12:05:05 -0400

I love broiling eggplant. Since the oven's heat hits the eggplant from above (as opposed to from below like on a grill) it's easier to baste the eggplant with a flavorful sauce and have the sauce stay put to really sear into the eggplant's flesh.

Last week when I came across a few firm purple Chinese eggplants, I decided to pick them up to broil for dinner. To make the sauce I picked up some really smooth fresh ginger, a few Thai chiles, a bag of my favorite Jasmine rice and a thick bone-in pork chop for the grill.

Before I broiled the eggplant I put together the sauce:

I minced a tablespoon each of ginger and garlic and thinly sliced a Thai chile. I put those in a bowl along with two tablespoons each of soy sauce and lime juice, 1/2 teaspoon of sesame oil and one teaspoon of peanut oil.

Then I whisked those together with a basting brush.

I cut two eggplants into half-inch strips lengthwise; I wanted them to be thin enough to cook through before they burned, but thick enough that their centers would stay moist. Then I lined them up on a small aluminum-clad broiling pan.

I preheated the broiler to high and generously brushed the tops of the slices with the sauce.

I slid the pan about 8-inches beneath the broiler and left them alone to broil on the first side.

After about 8 minutes, they were brown. I flipped them over and basted the second side with the sauce, and broiled them for another 8 minutes.

They were crisp on the outside, steamy and pillowy on the inside, and infused with the salty umami taste of the soy, chile heat, aromatic ginger, pungent garlic and nutty sesame and peanut oils. They were delicious draped over a pile of Jasmine rice alongside a simply seasoned grilled pork chop.

Like this recipe? See more eggplant recipes at cookthink.com. Or try our search tool to find whatever you're craving.

Penne With Field Peas, Tomato, Feta And Basil

Mon, 12 Sep 2011 10:22:28 -0400

A 2008 back issue of Saveur that I flipped through over the weekend has me inspired.

Around that time, along with the usual beautiful photography, they were starting to focus more and more on ingredients and techniques, with the various cuisines of the world as context. This month they highlight crab, brown rice and southern peas (which, it turns out, are really beans).

The issue prompted me to stop by by Murphree's Fruits And Vegetables, a coveted local source of freshly hulled peas. I picked up a pound each of fresh pink-eyed purple hull and cream peas. I packed them with a few bags of frozen peas for the trip back.

When I got back to Charleston late Friday night, I went right to work on a pasta dish featuring the peas.

I dropped a half pound or so of penne in boiling salted water. I simmered a big handful of peas with olive oil and white wine in a medium skillet until they were tender, about ten minutes. I pureed an heirloom tomato in the food processor, added that to the peas, seasoned everything with salt, freshly ground black pepper and a few red pepper flakes, and simmered the sauce until it thickened, another five minutes.

When the pasta was al dente, I crumbled a few ounces of feta and thinly sliced some basil. I added them both to the sauce along with the cooked pasta, and tossed everything together just until the feta melted a little.

The peas themselves were so delicious and fresh I almost wished I had cooked them alone; but the bright acidic tomato and earthy, salty feta complemented them well, and made for a satisfying post-travel meal.

Recipe: Carrot And Leek Ragout With Green Peas And Mint (Cookthink)
Recipe: Hoppin' John (Cookthink)
Recipe: Potato Pea Curry (VeganYumYum)
Reference: What is a legume? (Cookthink)

Chickpeas With Merguez Sausage And Kale

Wed, 07 Sep 2011 22:15:18 -0400

serves 2

Ingredients:
2-4 links merguez sausage (about 1/2 pound), sliced
1 bunch red kale (about 1 pound), stemmed and cut into ribbons
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup water
salt and pepper
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

Instructions:
1. Prep the sausage, kale and chickpeas.

2. Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. When it's hot and shimmering, add the merguez and stir. Leave it alone to brown 2 minutes. Stir and cook another minute. Add the kale and the water and cover the pan. Cook until the kale softens, 3-5 minutes.

3. Uncover the pan and stir. Season the kale with a light sprinkling of salt and pepper. Add the chickpeas and cook, stirring occasionally, until the kale is wilted but still bright green, 8-10 more minutes.

4. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cilantro and vinegar. Serve over rice, couscous or quinoa.

An Italian Take On Turkey

Sun, 04 Sep 2011 15:00:27 -0400

These days you can buy the bird in so many forms -- turkey pieces, turkey cutlets (or tenders), turkey sausages, smoked wings and legs, rolled or bone-in breast roasts -- that there are endless options for cooking turkey.

Last night I put together a simple, elegant saltimbocca that's a take on the classic Italian veal saltimbocca. I substituted turkey cutlets, rolled up with prosciutto and sage, lightly fried, finished with a white wine pan sauce and served over a bed of pasta.

All you do is pound turkey cutlets between two sheets of plastic wrap until they are 1/8-inch thick (you can use a meat pounder, a skillet or an empty bottle of wine).

Top each cutlet with a couple of fresh sage leaves and a slice of prosciutto, then roll the cutlets up and secure with a toothpick. (You can also fold cutlets in half or leave whole, for a more informal presentation.)

Season the saltimbocca with freshly ground black pepper, sear in a hot pan with some butter and olive oil, add some white wine, reduce the heat, cover and cook through, about 10 minutes total. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve over a bed of buttered noodles -- and there you have it.

Recipe: Turkey Saltimbocca (Cookthink)
Recipe: Egg Noodles With Peas And Parmesan (Cookthink)
Recipe: Sautéed Baby Spinach With Garlic (Cookthink)
Recipe: Sambal-Roasted Sweet Potatoes (Cookthink)

Pan Roasted Duck

Thu, 01 Sep 2011 20:10:57 -0400

Pan roasting is one of my favorite ways to cook meat indoors. Any cut of meat that will fit in a pan (chicken breast, steak, pork chop, etc.) can be seared over high heat, then finished in a moderately hot oven. Searing gives the meat browned flavor and crispness, and finishing in the oven helps the meat cook evenly throughout.

Over the weekend I picked up a duck breast to pan roast. Duck sometimes seems daunting to cook at home. But a duck breast is about as easy to cook as a strip steak, especially when pan roasted. Searing the breast fat-side down helps render and crisp the thick layer covering the meat.

Go to cookthink.com to see full instructions for how to cook duck breast.

Butternut Squash Tempura

Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:47:03 -0400

Here in the lowcountry, local markets are replete with squash of all kinds. Over the weekend I picked up some of the butternut variety, and decided to tempura fry them as a gameday appetizer for a few friends.

Tempura frying is quick and the batter is light, so as long as the oil is nice and hot the food shouldn't be oily. In fact, hot oil seals in the essence of the squash a lot better than other cooking methods.

This is one of my favorite dipping sauces for anything fried, but you might also try an Italian green sauce or a salsa verde.

Butternut Squash Tempura

1. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. First, cut the butternut squash in two at the intersection of the cylindrical neck and the round base. If the skin is too thick to peel with a vegetable peeler, try standing the neck with the flat cut-end down and slicing downward around the squash with a paring knife. (If the neck is really long, cut into two shorter pieces before doing this.) Peel the skin from the round base and then split it in two lengthwise. Using a spoon, scrape to remove the seeds and fibrous flesh. Cut the squash into 3-inch pieces. Put the pieces on a broiler pan, season them lightly with salt and pepper, and bake until barely tender, 20-30 minutes.

3. Fill a heavy, straight-sided saut� pan no more than halfway to the top with canola or grapeseed oil for deep frying. (Be sure not to fill the pan higher than halfway up the sides: the oil will expand when you fry, and could spill over and ignite.)

4. When the squash has cooled, cut the pieces into long rectangles.

5. Whisk together the rice flour and club soda. Add more flour or soda so that the batter is thick (like pancake batter).

6. Turn the heat on medium-high to warm the frying oil. When the oil reaches 360-375F, dip the squash pieces into the batter and let the excess drain off; the batter should cling to the squash but not be too clumpy.

7. Carefully set the squash pieces into the oil, letting them fall away from you so you don't splash oil onto your fingers. (You can also do this with tongs or a slotted spoon.) Work in batches of 6-8 pieces of squash at a time so the oil temperature is constant. Fry, turning the squash gently, until they're golden brown in spots, 3-5 minutes.

8. Remove the squash pieces with a slotted spoon and drain them on a paper towel- or newspaper-lined plate. Season immediately with salt and pepper.

9. Whisk together the soy sauce, lime juice, ginger and sesame oil. Serve alongside the squash.

Root Source: Brown Mustard

Fri, 29 May 2009 13:01:48 -0400

what you should know

Are they right, those boosters, when they say that mustard is the world's oldest condiment? Maybe they are. Its storied history as a spice, a medicine and a metaphor has made mustard important to people from Nanur to Napa.

But by the mid-1980s, the word had come to mean pretty much one thing in the U.S.: the sour water-paste of French's yellow mustard. It took a French accent and a Rolls Royce for Grey Poupon to finally break up the great American mustard monopoly and help bring about a browner, spicier era in mustardry.

The king of the browns is Dijon mustard, some of which are French, some of which (like Grey Poupon) are not. What makes Dijon Dijon is the use of wine must and white wine in the mustard. (Other brown mustards can contain water, vinegar or grape must.)

hot flashes The trademark heat in mustard -- that dash that starts on the tongue but seethes into the nostrils and then fades -- settles down as the mustard ages. "America's Test Kitchen" surveyed Dijons and found that fresh mustard is hotter. ATK's advice: buy small amounts of mustard and look for a date stamp on the bottle.

let mustard be your muse In addition to hosting a National Mustard Day, the Mount Horeb Mustard Museum, in Wisconsin, sponsors an annual contest about the much loved condiment.

what you need

From Mount Horeb's online gift shop, you can order very own personalized mustard.

Subscribe to a mustard of the month club.

Order mustard seeds or a sampler from Raye's Mustard, in Maine, home of North America's last remaining stone-ground mustard mill.

I would like to get to a point in my life where I use a mustard pot often and earnestly.

Recipes for homemade mustard abound online. The basic formula: soak mustard seeds (usually a combo of brown and yellow) + water + wine and/or vinegar + spices and/or herbs + salt and pepper. Blend. Taste. Tinker.

what you do

Mustard adds tons of flavor without bringing with it many calories. On broiled chicken, a mustard and parsley crust also gives the dish more texture. Ditto for grilled chicken coated with mustard and herbs.

Alongside the egg, Dijon mustard is one of the best emulsifiers around. Simply braised cauliflower shows off this mustard-tarragon vinaigrette.

When I was little, there was a period when I ate mustard with everything. I still love bacon dipped in mustard. Call me immature.

Root Source: Cumin

Fri, 29 May 2009 12:54:10 -0400

what you should know

A fixture in both curry and chili powder blends (as well as in Indian masalas), cumin's smoky warmth has made it a key ingredient in spice mixtures and pastes across the globe.

Cumin can fly solo, too. We love to rub it into lamb chops before grilling, or mix it into the cheesy filling of a burrito, or use it to accent a slaw or simple sautéed vegetable dish.

a(cumin) For the longest shelf life, your cumin should be stored in an airtight glass jar and kept in a cupboard (or some other dark place). As with many spices, you'll get the most flavor from cumin if you buy whole seeds and then grind them as you need them.

dry pan Lightly toasting cumin seeds in a dry skillet before using them helps release some of the seeds' aromas and lends a headier flavor to a dish.

cue: men With mentions in the Bible and the writings of Apicius ("when one is tired of all seasonings, cumin remains welcome..."), cumin has a long history as a culinary and medicinal spice. Apparently, there's also an old superstition about how cooking with cumin can keep your lover from wandering, but if you think spices will help with that, your problems are bigger than cooking.

what you need

Ana Sortun's Spice: Flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean is split into chapters based on spice and herb groupings. Chapter 1: Cumin, coriander and cardamom.

Jane and Michael Stern's Chili Nation chronicles some of the countless versions of this alternate national dish, to which cumin often lends its musky smoke flavor.

One easy and effective way to get more flavor into your cooking: buy your spices whole and spend $15 on a coffee grinder you use exclusively for grinding spices.

Chip uses his All-Clad 8-inch fry pan mostly to toast spices.

what you do

Cumin flavors both a spicy Indian okra and the cucumber raita that can help offset the okra's heat.

On a hot summer night, a steaming ragout or stew can actually have a cooling, cleansing effect. Try this delicious Indian style beef and sweet potatoes dish with a bowl of simple quinoa or basmati rice.

Brys is big on isolating single spices in a dish, like in this grilled cumin veal chop.

Or you could try a slightly more complex spice mixture with this grilled chili-cumin pork chop.

With its tart citrusy flavor, coriander rounds out cumin. Their natural affinity is on display in these black bean burritos with carrots, zucchini and cilantro.

Root Source: Quinoa

Fri, 29 May 2009 12:50:03 -0400

what you should know

Are we less inclined to warm up to foods we're not sure how to pronounce? That's the only reason we can think of to explain why quinoa ("KEEN-wah") has yet to take off in the U.S.

A "pseudo cereal" native to the Andes, quinoa is mild and slightly nutty, with a beautiful, pillowy texture that's a little like couscous. It's a farmer-friendly crop that grows easily in many different climates and at high altitudes. It's simple to process and prepare. It's gluten-free. It's easy to digest.

Quinoa has all the goods that grains and seeds are supposed to have (dietary fiber and so on). The real kicker though? Quinoa has the highest protein levels (up to 20%) of all the cereals -- pseudo or otherwise.

the case for quinoa This nutritional profile has led normally sober people to rhapsodize about the promise of quinoa. (Its potential as a hangover remedy was the subject of our first blog post.)

saponin warning Raw, quinoa is coated in a toxic, bitter substance called saponin. Almost all commercially available quinoa has been de-saponinized. Still, go ahead and rinse your quinoa a couple of times before you use it.

what you need

Rebecca Wood loves quinoa so much that she wrote a whole book about it. If Wood's Quinoa the Supergrain is too narrow a study for you, pick up her award-winning The Splendid Grain, one of the very best single-subject cookbooks out there. (Wood has recipes and tips at her website.)

Five years ago, Corby Kummer wrote in the Atlantic (sub. req'd) about a company called Inca Organics. The company works with thousands of quinoa farmers in Ecuador to supply worldwide food distributors. IO has a list of online retailers. Brys buys his quinoa from White Mountain Farm, one of the first large-scale quinoa operations in the U.S.

what you do

As with rice and pasta, it's next to impossible to make just the right amount of quinoa. We like to use leftover quinoa in burritos, stir-fries, salads and really anything that could use some texture. But leftover quinoa also shines as a breakfast grain. Try this quinoa with dried cranberries, toasted walnuts and honey.

Once you try quinoa in the place of pasta for this ham, cabbage and sage dish that Brys assembled out of the ether one day, you may never go back.

If you're a newcomer to quinoa, start with the basic preparation and go from there. One of Chip's favorite afternoon snacks is simply steamed quinoa mixed with sour cream and hot sauce.

Root Source: Marjoram

Fri, 29 May 2009 12:46:04 -0400

what you should know

Marjoram is oregano's calmer, sweeter fraternal twin. Oregano = zesty + peppery + lemony. Marjoram = delicate + floral + round. The two are often used interchangeably, but if you get up in their mix you'll see some big differences.

the tear-smell test Get a fresh sprig of marjoram and a fresh sprig of oregano. Tear an oregano leaf in half. Hold it up to your nose. Smell that piney resin? That jolt? It's sharp, isn't it? Almost one note.

Okay, wait a few minutes, then do the same thing with the marjoram. Smell the complexity? The spice is still there but it's perfumed, heady. Almost soapy. (If you use too much of it, that soapiness can take over a soup or sauce.)

the short and long of it You hear conflicting views about the best use for marjoram. First, you hear it's a great sauce and stewing herb that lends some woodsiness to long-cooked dishes. Then, you hear that marjoram should be added at the end of cooking so that you don't lose its delicate flavor.

We're marjoram centrists. When we're roasting, grilling or broiling something, we like a lot of marjoram and we like it on its own. The high heat tames that soapiness, leaving a delicate floral taste to contrast the meat. In sauces, salads, and dressings, where the marjoram's more potent, we like to use it sparingly and we taste as we go.

what you need

Claudia Roden was born in Egypt, where most of the cultivated marjoram in the world comes from. She's written many great books on the food of the Middle East and the Mediterranean. Right now, we're into her new Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon.

Can you survive without a Zyliss herb mill? Yes. Do you feel a little dignified when you use one? Yes. Is it up to you to decide if that kind of dignity is worth $12? Yes.

Rodale's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs versus Herbs and Spices: The Cook's Reference. In a steel cage match between the two, we're not sure who would come out on top. They're equally good.

what you do

Next time you're feeling like a quesadilla, stow the cilantro and try mixing marjoram and coriander with Monterey Jack. Against the cheese's gooey richness, the marjoram brings in a little lemon that the coriander picks up on and rounds out as orange. It's a match made in cielo.

We liked a toned-down version of moros y cristianos, the famous Cuban dish of black beans and rice. Though usually you'd use dried oregano, we think that fresh marjoram gives it more complexity.

Marjoram is underused as a flavoring for root vegetables. With carrots and Brussels sprouts roasted at high heat, marjoram highlights the sweet and woodsy qualities of the vegetables.

But if you really want to talk about marjoram and roasting, you've got to talk about lamb. To see what the herb's all about, try this seared and roasted rack of lamb inspired by one of Brys' favorite cooking shows, Take Home Chef.

Root Source: Pecorino

Fri, 29 May 2009 12:42:20 -0400

what you should know

For too long, pecorino has been Italy's other hard cheese.

Unlike Parmigiano-Reggiano, a cow's milk cheese made in northern Italy, pecorino cheeses are made with sheep's milk (pecora means "sheep") and they usually come from southern Italy and Sardinia, terrain too dry for mooing.

Most are grana: hard, aged, granular cheeses. But beyond that, "pecorino" can apply to any number of cheese styles. (Tasting notes at the blog.)

grate it yourself, sloth Most pecorino imported to the U.S. is sharp, "grating" cheese. In the time it has taken you to read this far, you could have grated 1/4 cup of pecorino. Unless you have to, don't buy grated pecorino. Seriously.

keep it under wraps When hard cheese is left out uncovered, the exposed surfaces oxidize and dry out. So unless you buy your pecorino by the wheel, it's best to store it in the crisper of the refrigerator. Pecorino is durable enough to tightly wrap in plastic wrap. Change the wrap every other day or so to let the cheese air out, but always rewrap it tightly. And for fullest flavor, let the cheese come to room temperature before using it.

try the rind Some pecorinos are brushed with olive oil. Others are rubbed with tomato paste. Others are wrapped in walnut leaves. And so on. Taste the rinds to get closer to the cheese. You may not like it, but at least you'll have tried.

what you need

The pungent graininess of Pecorino Romano and other hard grating pecs can be a lot to handle on its own. Try some shavings with a dollop of a spicy-sweet mostarda, the popular Italian fruit and mustard condiment.

I have one essential cheese tool: a Microplane grater. I use it almost daily. The Microplane's been so touted that it's almost not worth mentioning here. Almost.

If you don't live in New York, you should visit Murray's the next time you're there. In the meantime, get affineur Rob Kaufelt's new book, Murray's Cheese Handbook: A Guide to 300 of the World's Best Cheeses.

Rather buy American-made? Some of the best hard cheeses in the world are being produced in the U.S. My favorite monger, Boston's South End Formaggio, sells several pecorino-esque cheeses from Vermont: Woodcock Farm's Weston Wheel and Peaked Mountain Farm's Vermont Dandy.

what you do

Pecorino is classic for grating over pasta. It elevates already classic fusilli with sausage and broccoli raab.

Cold winter weather doesn't necessarily demand a comforting, warm dish. This fennel, orange and pecorino salad tastes bright and fresh -- just the thing when you've got the winter blues but don't feel like cooking.

Tangy Pecorino Toscano makes a perfect crown for a mild hors d'oeuvre of lentil bruschetta with basil.

Root Source: Beet

Fri, 29 May 2009 12:37:17 -0400

what you should know

If it's ugly, the old produce adage goes, it must be good. Nothing proves this so convincingly as the subsoil family of dark taproots, homeliest among them the beet.

The beet may not be much to look at on the outside, but what really defines it is the sweetness of its flesh, which is usually a vibrant red, yellow or orange.

Its high sugar content and hardiness have made it a fiber-rich workhorse in northern climates such as the Ukraine, whose national dish is the beet-based soup called borscht. (The family of America's most famous beet farmer, Dwight Schrute, came from Germany.)

keep the beet Stay away from beets that are soft or that have wet or bruised spots. You want smooth, firm beets. In the refrigerator, they'll keep for a month or so. Before cooking, gently scrub the beets. To prevent them from "bleeding," wait until after you've cooked and let them cool a little before you peel them.

it's chard When you can, buy beets with the tops still attached. When you get them home, lop off all but a half inch or so of the greens and store them separately. Cook the greens just like you would chard, which is actually a beet that's been bred as a leaf vegetable.

what you need

Peeling with the OXO 7" Good Grips swivel peeler is like writing with your favorite pen. With its thick grip, you can get an easy peel that doesn't maul the beet. (It won't keep your hands from staining pink, though. If soap doesn't get it out, try lemon juice.)

In her book Chez Panisse Vegetables, Alice Waters lets beets and other roots shine with as little embellishment as possible. We endorse this.

For borscht, you've got to have a good loaf of locally made bread. Slice it, toast it and drizzle it with butter or oil. Or just tear a chunk off for sopping.

what you do

You can do no wrong by simply roasting beets. (Wrapping or covering them in foil makes them easier to peel). While they're still warm, peel and toss them with quality vinegar. Waters insists that the vinegar highlights the sweetness of the beets. We agree.

That sweetness is the perfect canvas for playing around with contrasting flavors. Grate raw beets and toss them in a salad with frisee, walnuts and creamy fresh goat cheese.

Depending on where you find yourself in the world, borscht (or barszcz or bartsch or bors) can range from a cold, light broth to a hot, meaty stew. Here's a delicious but simple vegetarian borscht.

Root Source: Lemon Zest

Fri, 29 May 2009 12:32:18 -0400

what you should know

Our anti-fruit sauce zealotry got some people worked up last week. As a gesture of fruit-love, we decided to make peace with this week's root source on lemon zest.

why zest? James Beard chose the perfect word when he wrote that the lemon is "irreplaceable" in cooking. Lemon dignifies whatever it touches. Zest, the outer, yellow surface, is the intense, perfumed essence of the lemon. As a bright flavoring or finish, it acts like a spice or an herb. When you zest a lemon, you're basically taking the color from it and using that color to enliven something else.

5 zest notes 1. Buy firm, thick-skinned lemons that are heavy for their size. 2. Non-organic lemons have been sprayed with pesticides and other treatments. They've also been handled, dropped on the floor, and who knows what else. Before zesting a lemon, scrub it with a brush and a little soap and water. Then, rinse it well and dry it. 3. Zest only the outer yellow surface of the lemon. Avoid the bitter, white pith just below the surface. (And unless you're a "fruit detective," also avoid the pith helmet.) 4. Don't zest the lemon until you're ready to use it. 5. Then again, get in the habit of zesting every lemon you buy. If you're not using the zest right away, it will keep for a few months in the freezer.

what you need

How you zest a lemon depends on what kind of zest you want. For a fine, airy zest, use a Microplane or some other fine grater. For a julienne cut, use a zester. For longer, thicker strips of zest, use a vegetable peeler.

Cookbook author Lori Longbotham specializes in desserts, but in her comprehensive Lemon Zest, she features some delicious savory dishes as well.

what you do

As a nod to the last days of winter, brighten a dish of collard greens and white beans with lemon zest and hot sauce.

As a nod to the first days of spring (one more week), get outside and grill a New York strip with a spicy gremolata vinaigrette.

As a nod to arborio rice (why not?), try this cremini mushroom risotto that highlights the natural affinity between thyme and lemon.

Sealed inside parchment paper, lemon zest perfumes a salmon, fennel and potato papillote.

Root Source: Pork Tenderloin

Fri, 29 May 2009 12:27:31 -0400

what you should know

Here's a widespread practice that we'd like to see scaled way back: pairing pork tenderloin with fruit.

Don't think it's that widespread? A challenge then: flip through the indices of your cookbooks until you find three pork tenderloin recipes in three separate books.

just let it be savory There's nothing inherently wrong with pairing pork tenderloin with fruit. It just shows a collective failure of imagination that it is all anyone ever seems to want to do with this leaner, milder cut more prized for its tenderness than its flavor. As with a filet mignon, a generous seasoning of coarsely ground salt and pepper paired with high heat can transform a pork tenderloin.

temp, not time The key to a juicy pork tenderloin: temperature. You can cook a tenderloin in just about conceivable way, but always have your meat thermometer ready. You cannot reliably use a timer and expect a juicy tenderloin. It's that simple.

While the National Pork Producers Council has for years recommended a blistering internal read of 160F, we're glad to see more and more people champion medium-rare and medium pork. We've been consistently pleased by pulling pork at 142F. We let the meat sit covered for 5-10 minutes, during which time the temp will tick up a few more degrees.

what you need

Cooking pork tenderloin gives us an excuse to wield our favorite kitchen tools: a pair of OXO Good Grips tongs (Chip) and a Taylor instant-read digital thermometer (Brys). No one's favorite kitchen tool is butcher's twine, but when you need it, you need it. And often for a whole pork tenderloin, you need it.

You may not need Peter Kaminsky's Pig Perfect or Bruce Aidell's Complete Book of Pork, but owning either or both means you'll never need another email like this one to remind you of this next point.

Which is that, in the past several decades, pigs have changed dramatically. What used to be a lush, fatty meat has been bred into something leaner, less marbled. Across the country, certain small-scale producers specialize in heritage pig breeds like the Berkshire and the Red Wattle. We urge you to try these breeds. Compared to most of the supermarket cuts (with Niman Ranch as an exception), they're juicier, they're tastier, and they're more humanely raised. To save them you have to eat them.

what you do

Get back to basics. Forgo the fruit, the marinades, the rubs. Forget everything you've heard about the tenderloin's blandness. Track down a good quality cut. Season and moisturize it in a simple brine, then sear and roast it. Using just a few ingredients and direct high heat, let the meat speak for itself.

Or, instead of a brine, try Mark Bittman's twice-seared pork medallions (video) with a good pan sauce. (Not a fruity one, though.)

Sticking a tenderloin in the freezer before using it in a stir-fry helps keep the meat firm as you thinly slice it. We love this clean, textured stir-fry of pork, eggplant, red peppers and basil.

What is pate sablee?

Mon, 18 May 2009 08:37:04 -0400

Pâte sablée is the richest of the French short pastry crusts. It is used to make sweet flans and tarts.

A pâte sablée is made with butter, flour or powdered almonds, butter, egg, sugar and flavored with vanilla. It has more calories than a pâte brisée or pâte sucrée and the most flavor.

What is a pate a bombe?

Mon, 18 May 2009 08:36:54 -0400

A pâte à bombe is the French term for a mixture used as a base for making chocolate mousse and other mousse-like desserts.

It is made by pouring a sugar syrup that has been cooked until it is 121 degrees celsius (249.8 farenheit) over egg yolks and whipping the mixture until it is completely cold and has transformed into a uniform, unctuous, airy mass.

Couscous With Seven Vegetables

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:27 -0400

Nazha Kasraoui learned to make her couscous while growing up in Rabat. There are faster ways to make couscous, but Kasraoui prefers this age-old, multi-step method for superior results. She allows for 10 servings, but there's plenty left over.

Balsamic-Marinated Flank Steak With Salsa Verde

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:25 -0400

Because flank steak is so grainy, it needs to be cut very thin and on the bias, so make sure you have a sharp carving knife. Chef Barry Koslow serves the steak over panzanella salad.

Grilled Chocolate Crostini

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:21 -0400

These are chic, simple and not as messy as s'mores. Serve with a bowl of strawberries.

Grilled Spice-Rubbed Vidalia Onions

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:15 -0400

Here's a tip for grilling onions from "Cook's Illustrated Guide to Grilling and Barbecue" (America's Test Kitchen, 2005):.

Deconstructed Summer Borscht

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:12 -0400

Gardener Cynthia Brown thought up this recipe while she was on the way home from work. She considered making borscht but wasn't in the mood for soup, so she used vegetables and flavors featured in borscht recipes. .

Vidalia Bourbon Relish

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:10 -0400

This is the first relish Heather Shorter attempted at home. She developed it for her friend Bill Thomas, owner of the Bourbon restaurants in Washington. Boozy and rich, it is delicious on grilled pork, hamburgers or good-quality hot dogs.

Fava Bruschetta

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:08 -0400

Favas take time to prepare, so grab a glass of something (perhaps Chianti), sit on the deck and decompress. .

Frittata With Zucchini

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:05 -0400

Fabrizio Aielli likes to make this for guests at his home. It's the easiest, and some would argue best, way to make a large omelet. Small, thin zucchini have the most flavor.

Summer Garden Vegetable Gazpacho

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:02 -0400

When preparing this soup, use the freshest, most perfectly ripe locally grown produce you can find.

Grilled Succotash Pasta With Garlic Sauce

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 19:09:00 -0400

Garlic planted in gardens in October is ready to be harvested. The fresh garlic available in farmers markets is stupendous, so take advantage of its sweetness now instead of storing it. Roasting garlic makes it even sweeter.