Hair of the Dog is Cookthink’s Monday morning cocktail column by Rob Chirico, the author of the Field Guide to Cocktails. Read more about Rob here.

Once upon a time, the Bellini was a drink just for the summertime. A rich blend of white peach purée and Prosecco, this elegant queen of cocktails was created at Harry’s Bar in Venice and served only during the months when white peaches were available.

Now, frozen white peach purée is available year-round and white peaches from California span the entire summer (with imports from Chile stocking U.S. markets in the winter.) Still, I think of the Bellini as a drink for August, when white peaches are abundant and the time is right for making this truly classic, refreshing drink as it was first done 75 years ago.

The cocktail was concocted in the 1930s by Harry’s owner Giuseppe Cipriani, but it wasn’t officially christened until 1948, when Venice hosted an exposition of work by the Italian Renaissance painter Giovanni Bellini.

Back then, making the purée was an arduous process. The Harry’s Bar Cookbook notes that one man did nothing all day but cut up and pit small white peaches and squeeze the flesh with his hands to extract the juice. The juice and pulp of the peaches were then run through a sieve and blended with Prosecco.

To make a classic Bellini, you will need plenty of fresh white peaches and a little simple syrup in case the peaches are too tart. No matter what others tell you, use only white peaches for a Bellini or the color and taste will be off. Another caveat: purée the peaches with a food mill or in a metal China cap. You could use a food processor, but you could also shoot a puppy; both are a crime.

Refrigerate the puréed peach mixture until it’s very cold. The Prosecco should also be icy cold. And, just to be safe, chill your glasses as well.

Recipe: White Peach Purée (Hair of the Dog)
Recipe: Bellini (Hair of the Dog)

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