I have been let down too many times by the tempting flesh of fresh-picked plums. They often look so smooth-skinned and alluring. Then, they break their promises in the mouth.

So I’ve learned to hedge my bets by stewing them on the stovetop and confining them to plum sauces and tarts, where heat seems to turn any trace of mealiness into something more lush.

But my real affections belong to the prune (re-branded in recent years as the “dried plum”), which we’re not covering in this week’s Root Source: Plum but which still needs some attention.

I have learned to appreciate the dried plum in France, home to the Pruneau d’Agen — named for the French port where they are shipped to the rest of the world. These little gems are wrinkly, black, shiny, plump and unbeautiful. First cultivated centuries ago, they later formed the backbone of the California prune industry.

In France, prunes figure into many dishes, from a classic rabbit with prunes to dense prune-laced cakes from Brittany. They are often served with an apéritif, which has become my favorite way to eat and serve them. I like to stuff prunes with little cubes of foie gras or serve them wrapped in bacon and stuffed with goat cheese and walnuts, then baked.

Of course, you don’t need to do anything to prunes to enjoy them. They’re addictive on their own. My friend Mimi cannot keep prunes in the house, since they have the same effect on her as peanuts or potato chips do on others — once she starts, she cannot stop.

Do you eat prunes? Cook with them? Please share ideas and recipes in the comments.

Posted by kristin in ingredients | | Subscribe to this feed