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Archive for November, 2007

Beef broth –> consommé –> pho

Friday, November 30th, 2007

(Editor’s note: Here’s the Beef Pho recipe that accompanies this step-by-step guide.)

I came across some frozen beef bones at Whole Foods the other day, and decided to try to make some beef broth. When I got home, I grabbed James Peterson’s book Splendid Soups. Peterson is a master of classic French technique, and his beef broth recipe was included as the first step in making consommé.

The image of a really clear broth instantly brought the Vietnamese soup pho to mind, so I decided to make beef broth, then turn the broth into a consommé, then turn the consommé into pho.

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Brussels sprouts with chanterelles, tarragon and cream

Thursday, November 29th, 2007

In this week’s root source on Brussels sprouts, we forgot to include the link for this Brussels sprouts with chanterelles, tarragon and cream recipe. Too bad, because it’s my favorite of this week’s recipes. The slight sweetness of the sprouts goes so well with the earthy chanterelles and the rich wine-cream sauce. This is an easy way to lure in someone who claims to hate Brussels sprouts.

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Cookthink Recipe Index

Wednesday, November 28th, 2007

Want to wander through the Cookthink recipe database? Check out our alphabetized recipe index. You’ll find a permanent link below the “Who is Cookthink?” in the right sidebar. For now, you can browse by letter. Soon, you’ll also be able to browse by main ingredient, dish type, cuisine and mood. Stay tuned!

Sometimes you just need a baked potato

Tuesday, November 27th, 2007

Yesterday was one hell of a travel day. I tried to outsmart the holiday travel crowds by booking a flight back up to D.C. yesterday instead of Sunday. But the blanket of morning fog that settled over the airport in Greensboro, NC, didn’t care about my plans.

The trip was off to a shaky start when I remembered, with the help of the TSA agent manning the X-ray machine, that the three bottles of red wine I had in my carry-on were in fact liquid, and therefore not going on the plane with me. So I went back out to the terminal and convinced an information booth volunteer to hold them there so my mom could pick them up. She agreed as long as they were picked up by noon, when she’d be leaving.

I went through security again and sat down at the gate to wait on my flight. I called mom and found out there was no way she could make it back to the airport by noon. Immediately after that, the gate agent announced that my flight was delayed an hour. So I went out to the terminal again, got the wine from the information booth and lugged it to a taxi stand downstairs. They agreed to hold it until mom got there to pick it up.

I went through security a third time and sat back down at the gate. Twenty minutes later, they canceled my flight and offered to put us on one that was leaving six hours later. Tempting as it was to sit in the Greensboro airport for six hours, I decided instead to rent a car and drive back to D.C. I had my baggage pulled, got in the car, and started the trek to D.C., but not before going back to the taxi stand and picking up my three bottles of wine.

I drove without stopping, got into D.C. around 5pm, returned the car and hopped in a cab. It wasn’t until I was at the front door of my building that I realized that I didn’t have the key to the doorknob that had been locked from the inside by someone who had been working on my apartment. I left my bags and three bottles of wine at the front door, walked around to the storage shed in the common courtyard and found a ladder. A guy on the street agreed to hold the ladder while I climbed up to my second story window and tumbled inside.

I was really hungry, and saw two potatoes on my counter. I turned the oven to 350F before going downstairs to grab my bags and wine, one bottle of which I opened as soon as I got back into my apartment. I popped the potatoes into the oven and sat down with a glass of wine and the most recent issue of the New Yorker.

When the potatoes were tender, I chopped some chives that I found in my crisper and mixed them with a couple of tablespoons of crème fraîche, plus some salt and freshly ground black pepper. I took the potatoes and the wine back to my chair, and I sat there, not moving, and read for hours.

Recipe: Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes (Cookthink)
Reference: How to cube a potato

The only sambal borscht in the universe

Monday, November 26th, 2007

It’s important to have goals — even small, meaningless goals. Over the past year, one of ours has been to post something on Cookthink that shows up as the only search result for a particular Google search. (Sad, I know.)

With a recipe for last week’s root source on sambal oelek, we’ve finally done it. The recipe is called Sambal Borscht and when you search for “Sambal Borscht” on Google, last week’s root source is the only thing that shows up. Billions of webpages out there and there’s only one for “sambal borscht.” Come to think of it, there should be at least two; I’m not sure why the recipe itself isn’t showing up yet. Anyway, it’s a recipe worth trying, worth more at least than just one search result.

All for a good cup of joe

Monday, November 26th, 2007

I’m a recent convert to coffee - I managed to get through both of my degrees without drinking the stuff. But somehow over the last few months, my palate has decided that what was once “ick” is now “mmmmm”. (Funny, that’s how it happened with beer, too.)

But my newly acquired appreciation couldn’t have come at a better time - I had the chance last week to meet with Erica Hess, “Coffee Educator” for Peet’s Coffee & Tea. West coasters may be familiar with the Peet’s brand - and after years catering to caffeine-desperate east coast transplants through mail-order, Peet’s is now gracing the shelves of grocery stores in the DC area. To promote this move, I got to spend an hour talking with Erica about coffee, how to brew it, and best of all, how to drink it with and without food.

The most important thing about choosing your coffee is that it’s fresh - freshly roasted, and freshly ground. After that, it’s all about personal taste, whether you like the richer, thicker flavor of a French Roast, or the sharper bite of a Sumatran.

No matter what kind you like, there are tricks to brewing the perfect cup. I like a french press myself - mostly because I don’t drink coffee often enough to justify another appliance on my limited counter space. It’s a great way to get the most flavor out of your chosen beans.

The secrets to a good french press are, as with so many things, in the timing. You have to take the time to grind your beans fresh, in a coarse grind. Then it’s measuring out 2 tablespoons for every 6-8 ounces of water. You start with freshly drawn (and probably filtered, if you live in DC) water, brought to a boil. But here’s the trick - once it comes to a boil, you wait 20 seconds to take the edge off the water so it won’t scorch the coffee on contact.

The brewing takes about 3-4 minutes - you can plunge it halfway after a few minutes to release some of the gases (whole coffee beans contain gases that are partially released when ground, and then the rest of the way during brewing. It can put a lot of pressure in that little pot, so don’t be afraid to push hard). Plunge all the way, then swirl the coffee in the carafe to balance the brew before serving, since the water towards the bottom will be heavier with coffee.

This was all well and good, but after sitting there smelling coffee for a half hour, what I really wanted was to taste it. Drinking coffee is a lot like drinking wine, really - each brew, each bean has its own distinct flavor and feel on the palate. For me, I experience the differences in the way it feels on my tongue. The Sumatran, with its spicy bite tingles in the front quadrants, the Major Dickenson’s Blend sat evenly and lightly over the whole expanse of my mouth and the French Roast had a thicker, oiler sensation that feels rich to the sip.

And then there’s the process of pairing the right brew of coffee with the right desert. A blend of beans is usually the “just right” with most everything - not too dark or light, not too much oil or bite. The light flavor of the chocolate and coffee éclairs went well with the blend, as did the mille foille. But for the bolder flavors, a bolder cup went better. The rich chocolate tart needed the bite of the Sumatran to clear the palate, and surprisingly, the puckering lemon tart went beautifully with the French Roast - the darkness of the coffee adding a complex note to the sweet-sour dessert.

Coffee is such a personalized process - everyone has their favorite cup, their own balance of cream, sugar, or nothing, and their own way of enjoying it. No two people I asked had the same preferences on blend or brewing. How do you take your coffee?

Crisp Apple-Scented Roast Turkey With Calvados-Cider Gravy

Saturday, November 24th, 2007

When I was flipping through the November issue of Saveur a couple of weeks ago, I came across Lynn Rossetto Kasper’s ambitious recipe for Crisp Apple-Scented Roast Turkey With Calvados-Cider Gravy.

In the recipe (really more of a narration with photos), Kasper talks about layering flavors — a concept I like a lot. She uses apples and apple flavor throughout the recipe to add complexity to the final dish.

So when I was thinking about what to make for Thanksgiving dinner, I turned to Kasper’s splendid turkey. I decided I’d follow her recipe closely with a few improvisations along the way.

The process starts with a combo turkey and chicken stock the day before cooking the turkey. With Kasper’s recipe in mind, here’s what I did:

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Parsnips, rabbit and other root source requests

Friday, November 23rd, 2007

We’ve been getting lots of root source special requests lately. Our friend Tallie lives in London and is running out of things to do with all her parsnips. Cookthink reader Jen has been craving rabbit and is looking for some creative ways to cook it. Somebody else is looking for a soy sauce root source, and several people have written to ask about olives.

On this slow day (Elizabeth and I are thinking about an Enchanted/No Country for Old Men double feature), anybody out there looking for the lowdown on something? We’re getting our root source schedule inked for the rest of the year, so let us know now.

Here’s this past week’s root source on sambal oelek. If you haven’t yet signed up for the root source, you can subscribe here.

Recipe: Roasted Parsnips With Garlic And Rosemary
Recipe: Roasted Lamb Leg With Black Olives, Thyme And Orange
Recipe: Grilled Flank Steak With Lime-Soy Marinade

Home for Thanksgiving

Thursday, November 22nd, 2007

I’ve been in down North Carolina since Tuesday for Thanksgiving. It’s been warm and sunny (though a front’s coming through today), and good to be with family, friends and the comforting sights and smells of home.

Cookthink’s schedule called for business as usual the day before Thanksgiving, but I’ve mostly been planning, shopping and cooking for tomorrow’s meal.

And though my family thinks it’s funny, I’ve been taking pictures of a lot of the meal prep (stay tuned). Here’s our menu:

Brined and Roasted “Apple” Turkey (adapted from Lynne Rossetto Kasper’s recipe in the November issue of Saveur)
Cavolo Nero With Borlotti Beans, Tomato And Pecorino
Brussels Sprouts With Bacon And Balsamic Vinegar
Celery Root Purée
Cranberry Compote
“Mama Ruth’s” Dressing
Spinach-Stuffed Artichoke Bottoms
Sweet Potato Pie
Sister Schubert’s Rolls

This year we’re popping a little champagne before the meal, then opening a magnum of 1997 Joseph Phelps Insignia that I grabbed and set aside when I worked there about six years ago. My mom and step-dad are going to open a bottle of early 70’s Calvados they’ve been saving for years. It’ll be a good digestif after a second helping of apple-intense turkey.

“I don’t cut like a chef, I cut like a butcher.”

Wednesday, November 21st, 2007

Carving questions? Check out the NYT’s step-by-step guide.