Among the multiple pleasant dining surprises I had in London was the discovery that St. John, famous for its subdued celebration of meat dishes from nose to tail, also impeccably pairs and prepares vegetables.
The vegetables bring brightness and color to bold meat and seafood dishes, which are simply and elegantly named: Braised Veal, Butterbeans & Green Sauce, Roast Chicken & Chicory, Rabbit Saddle & Courgettes, Ox Heart, Braised Carrots & Horseradish, Tripe, Bacon & White Beans.
Still, offal reigns, and it’s all very good. But at risk of diminishing your appetites, I’d like to confess that one dish in particular temporarily diminished mine — and I could frankly only get so far into it without needing to try again another day: the braised ox tongue. It was challenging.
I believe that for those more accustomed to tongue than I / the very hungry, that particular tongue’s flavor and texture would have been about as good as it gets — a very succesful dish. But me, I have a little acquiring to do.
Next, the renowned River Cafe.